| Albatros D.III (Oeffag series 53) |
History
Early in World War One, the Austro-Hungarian company Oesterreichische Daimler
Motoren AG was given permission to establish a modern aircraft factory and on March
3, 1915, the Oesterreichische Flugzeugfabrik AG (Oeffag) was established. In August
1916 Oeffag became impressed with the performance of the German Albatros fighters
and obtained the license to produce them starting with the D.II model.
As Albatros improved their D.II to incorporate new "sesquiplane or Nieuport" style
wings, Oeffag remained in step. Oeffag maintained common fuselage, undercarriage
and tail surfaces with the D.II but were not content with the German wing design and
developed a much stronger wing and airframe. In the process, they created a strong,
beautifully crafted airplane that could take an engine of increasing power without
extensive modification. The initial Oeffag D.III utilized the Daimler 185 hp engine in
place of the 160 hp Mercedes of the German version. This provided greater top speed,
and rate of climb. The design remained in production until the end of the war in three
different series. The first series, series 53 is the subject of this Roden kit.
The Kit: This kit is a recent release from Roden. It is noted that a number of extra
parts are included in the kit. Roden use many of the same sprues to build other
versions of the Oeffag D.II and D.III. The kit is cleanly molded and includes markings
for five aircraft.
Construction: Construction starts with the engine. It is well detailed and assembles
easily. Note-the instructions call for parts 11F, the gun barrels, to be assembled with
the engine. I found it easier to hold off and install these parts after the engine is
mounted into the fuselage. Also, I waited until final assembly to install the exhaust
system, part 9F.
The fuselage is detailed on the inside and contains a basic seat and control stick. I
added lead foil seat belts and accentuated some of the interior stringers. I also added
a couple of instruments to the underside of the top deck similar to photos. Finally, a
vent on each side of the fuselage needs to be removed on this version. The plans
show this clearly. The plans seem to show that the control stick and rudder pedals are
installed into one fuselage side before assembly of the fuselage. This does not work
well. I ended up gluing the fuselage together and then trimming the control column
and rudder pedals to fit. The joint at the front of the fuselage where the fuselage
sides, the top deck and the nose cone come together is tricky. It is best to make sure
that the top deck is lined up with the front of the fuselage so that the nose cone will
come close to fitting. The joint at the rear of the top deck can be easily filled and
sanded if needed.
Wing assembly is reasonably easy. The first item is to check all of the strut mounting
locations. There should be mounting holes at each location although some of the
locations seem to have the mold pin broken and thus have a small pimple sticking
above the wing surface. Trim this off and drill a mounting hole at all locations. The
bottom wings are keyed into the fuselage and pose no problems. Simply make sure
that the joint is cleaned up and double-check the wing dihedral while making sure that
the leading edge is straight. The top wing is composed of three parts. Again, clean up
the joints and make sure that the wing is flat and the leading edge is straight when
gluing the wing together. I mounted the top wing as follows. First I glued the cabane
struts to the top wing and canted them inward so that the space between the strut
ends was equal to the width of the fuselage at the mounting point. When this was dry,
I placed spots of glue at the four fuselage mounting points and slid the wing in place
from the top. The mounting points line up well so it is simply a matter of making sure
that the wing is straight and level. After it had set up, I added some more CA cement
to fix the joints. When the wing-to-cabane strut joints were dry, I installed the
interplane struts. These easily snap into the mounting holes.
Final items: The landing gear goes together easily. I used the same trick as the top
wing and glued it in place. I installed the radiator hoses next. The front one, part 14F,
fit ok but the rear part seemed too short. I used a piece of stretched sprue as a
substitute. The exhaust pipe was glued in place at this time. The plans show to use
part 9F although some photos and plans seem to show individual pipes. The photo of
the actual airplane in inconclusive so I followed the kit directions. Regarding the prop
and spinner, I choose to paint the propeller first and then fit it into the spinner. I
simulated the multi layered prop by painting the prop wood color, applying thin strips
of masking tape and then painting it leather. I found the prop too big and had to trim
some plastic off the hub and the inside of the spinner in order for the spinner to meet
the back plate. Even then, it resulted in a bad joint. It would have been better for
Roden to design the back plate to fit inside the spinner. As it was, I should have glued
the spinner together, filled and sanded the joint and then painted the prop and
spinner. Next time. The last major item was the rigging. I use stainless steel wire for
rigging. Measure the length of wire needed and cut it a little long. Then test-fit and
trim off small amounts until it is the correct length. I then dipped both ends in super
glue and carefully put the wire in place. I should have pre-drilled some locating holes
before wing assembly but I was too eager.
Painting and Markings: I choose to make the version on the box cover. According to
Roden, it was flown by Austro-Hungarian ace Julius Arigi. I later found out that Arigi
never flew this aircraft. Instead, it was flown my members of Flik 6 in Albania during
the summer of 1917. Pilots who used this aircraft include Oberletnant Karl Benedek
and Zgf. Michael Schwach. It has doped linen wings and tail surfaces and plywood
fuselage. After checking all of the paints that I had, I chose Model Masters Light Ivory,
no. 2709. For the fuselage, I used Model Masters Wood, no. 1735, applied a coat of
future and then took some Burnt Sienna oil color and used a wide, stiff brush to dry
brush an indication of wood grain. It looks good but the final result is a little darker
than I would have liked. Three of the schemes included with the kit are these same
colors while the other three utilize the Brumowski scheme of dark green with yellow
sworls on the upper surfaces. I will probably build another one of these kits so that I
can use those neat Americal/Gryphon decals. In fact, there are thirty five different,
interesting markings contained in the Insignia Colour Guide number one. Wow, I could
build lots of these kits!!
The sequence of painting is as follows. I painted the engine before mounting it into
the fuselage. Then I completed the fuselage and wood grained it. I next painted the
wings and horizontal stabilizers. The lower wing and stab was then mounted. The
rudder and fin were next painted and installed. I applied the decals at this time. I
painted all of the struts before assembly and then mounted the top wing and wheels.
Following final assembly, I added a light coat of clear flat to clean up shiny areas
where I had handled the model during final assembly and wiring. This also reduced
the shininess of the wires. The flat coat also covers up the areas where super glue
was slopped on the wing while doing the wiring. This always happens.
Conclusion: I have been pleased with the recent offerings from Roden and Toko,
which have added a number of interesting World War One subjects. This kit was one
of the easiest to assemble and I am pleased with the final result.
Reference:
Windsock Datafile 19 - Albatros D.III (Oef) - Most of the details that you need regarding
the Austro-Hungarian models.
Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One - Pricey but lots of good information
including a photo of 53-30.
Profile Publications No. 127 - Albatros D.I-D.III - Covers mostly the German versions.
Early in World War One, the Austro-Hungarian company Oesterreichische Daimler
Motoren AG was given permission to establish a modern aircraft factory and on March
3, 1915, the Oesterreichische Flugzeugfabrik AG (Oeffag) was established. In August
1916 Oeffag became impressed with the performance of the German Albatros fighters
and obtained the license to produce them starting with the D.II model.
As Albatros improved their D.II to incorporate new "sesquiplane or Nieuport" style
wings, Oeffag remained in step. Oeffag maintained common fuselage, undercarriage
and tail surfaces with the D.II but were not content with the German wing design and
developed a much stronger wing and airframe. In the process, they created a strong,
beautifully crafted airplane that could take an engine of increasing power without
extensive modification. The initial Oeffag D.III utilized the Daimler 185 hp engine in
place of the 160 hp Mercedes of the German version. This provided greater top speed,
and rate of climb. The design remained in production until the end of the war in three
different series. The first series, series 53 is the subject of this Roden kit.
The Kit: This kit is a recent release from Roden. It is noted that a number of extra
parts are included in the kit. Roden use many of the same sprues to build other
versions of the Oeffag D.II and D.III. The kit is cleanly molded and includes markings
for five aircraft.
Construction: Construction starts with the engine. It is well detailed and assembles
easily. Note-the instructions call for parts 11F, the gun barrels, to be assembled with
the engine. I found it easier to hold off and install these parts after the engine is
mounted into the fuselage. Also, I waited until final assembly to install the exhaust
system, part 9F.
The fuselage is detailed on the inside and contains a basic seat and control stick. I
added lead foil seat belts and accentuated some of the interior stringers. I also added
a couple of instruments to the underside of the top deck similar to photos. Finally, a
vent on each side of the fuselage needs to be removed on this version. The plans
show this clearly. The plans seem to show that the control stick and rudder pedals are
installed into one fuselage side before assembly of the fuselage. This does not work
well. I ended up gluing the fuselage together and then trimming the control column
and rudder pedals to fit. The joint at the front of the fuselage where the fuselage
sides, the top deck and the nose cone come together is tricky. It is best to make sure
that the top deck is lined up with the front of the fuselage so that the nose cone will
come close to fitting. The joint at the rear of the top deck can be easily filled and
sanded if needed.
Wing assembly is reasonably easy. The first item is to check all of the strut mounting
locations. There should be mounting holes at each location although some of the
locations seem to have the mold pin broken and thus have a small pimple sticking
above the wing surface. Trim this off and drill a mounting hole at all locations. The
bottom wings are keyed into the fuselage and pose no problems. Simply make sure
that the joint is cleaned up and double-check the wing dihedral while making sure that
the leading edge is straight. The top wing is composed of three parts. Again, clean up
the joints and make sure that the wing is flat and the leading edge is straight when
gluing the wing together. I mounted the top wing as follows. First I glued the cabane
struts to the top wing and canted them inward so that the space between the strut
ends was equal to the width of the fuselage at the mounting point. When this was dry,
I placed spots of glue at the four fuselage mounting points and slid the wing in place
from the top. The mounting points line up well so it is simply a matter of making sure
that the wing is straight and level. After it had set up, I added some more CA cement
to fix the joints. When the wing-to-cabane strut joints were dry, I installed the
interplane struts. These easily snap into the mounting holes.
Final items: The landing gear goes together easily. I used the same trick as the top
wing and glued it in place. I installed the radiator hoses next. The front one, part 14F,
fit ok but the rear part seemed too short. I used a piece of stretched sprue as a
substitute. The exhaust pipe was glued in place at this time. The plans show to use
part 9F although some photos and plans seem to show individual pipes. The photo of
the actual airplane in inconclusive so I followed the kit directions. Regarding the prop
and spinner, I choose to paint the propeller first and then fit it into the spinner. I
simulated the multi layered prop by painting the prop wood color, applying thin strips
of masking tape and then painting it leather. I found the prop too big and had to trim
some plastic off the hub and the inside of the spinner in order for the spinner to meet
the back plate. Even then, it resulted in a bad joint. It would have been better for
Roden to design the back plate to fit inside the spinner. As it was, I should have glued
the spinner together, filled and sanded the joint and then painted the prop and
spinner. Next time. The last major item was the rigging. I use stainless steel wire for
rigging. Measure the length of wire needed and cut it a little long. Then test-fit and
trim off small amounts until it is the correct length. I then dipped both ends in super
glue and carefully put the wire in place. I should have pre-drilled some locating holes
before wing assembly but I was too eager.
Painting and Markings: I choose to make the version on the box cover. According to
Roden, it was flown by Austro-Hungarian ace Julius Arigi. I later found out that Arigi
never flew this aircraft. Instead, it was flown my members of Flik 6 in Albania during
the summer of 1917. Pilots who used this aircraft include Oberletnant Karl Benedek
and Zgf. Michael Schwach. It has doped linen wings and tail surfaces and plywood
fuselage. After checking all of the paints that I had, I chose Model Masters Light Ivory,
no. 2709. For the fuselage, I used Model Masters Wood, no. 1735, applied a coat of
future and then took some Burnt Sienna oil color and used a wide, stiff brush to dry
brush an indication of wood grain. It looks good but the final result is a little darker
than I would have liked. Three of the schemes included with the kit are these same
colors while the other three utilize the Brumowski scheme of dark green with yellow
sworls on the upper surfaces. I will probably build another one of these kits so that I
can use those neat Americal/Gryphon decals. In fact, there are thirty five different,
interesting markings contained in the Insignia Colour Guide number one. Wow, I could
build lots of these kits!!
The sequence of painting is as follows. I painted the engine before mounting it into
the fuselage. Then I completed the fuselage and wood grained it. I next painted the
wings and horizontal stabilizers. The lower wing and stab was then mounted. The
rudder and fin were next painted and installed. I applied the decals at this time. I
painted all of the struts before assembly and then mounted the top wing and wheels.
Following final assembly, I added a light coat of clear flat to clean up shiny areas
where I had handled the model during final assembly and wiring. This also reduced
the shininess of the wires. The flat coat also covers up the areas where super glue
was slopped on the wing while doing the wiring. This always happens.
Conclusion: I have been pleased with the recent offerings from Roden and Toko,
which have added a number of interesting World War One subjects. This kit was one
of the easiest to assemble and I am pleased with the final result.
Reference:
Windsock Datafile 19 - Albatros D.III (Oef) - Most of the details that you need regarding
the Austro-Hungarian models.
Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One - Pricey but lots of good information
including a photo of 53-30.
Profile Publications No. 127 - Albatros D.I-D.III - Covers mostly the German versions.
Roden Kit # 022
cew
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