Real aircraft in Natural Metal finishes usually display a variety of subtle color differences between the various panels. These differences can be due to a variety of reasons including;
· Different metals on certain panels like armor, blast shields and tail cones.
· Different aluminum alloys for high and low strength areas.
· Different thickness of panels.
· Different direction of rolling during the processing of the metal.
· Different operating conditions such as high heat etc.
· Environmental effects occurring at different rates. Some panels "age" quicker.
· Different angles of viewing the subject.
Before starting to finish a model, it is important to search various sources of reference material to find photos of the model that you wish to build. Try to find the exact subject. Look for tonal variations between panels. Note the degree of variations from slight to pronounced. Try to find consistency by looking at other photos. Many times an effect noted on one airplane will not exist on others or even may be reversed.
Another source of input may be artist drawings of your model. Typically the artist may have more or better copies of the photos to illustrate the model. His observations can be taken as another input, not necessarily as the only input. When a very subtle difference exists between panels, just the edges of a panel can be shaded, not the entire panel. When you have decided how you want to depict the different tones of a model, sketch your observations onto a three-view drawing. This way, you won't get confused or forgetful in the middle of the paint job.
Painting the Model
Testor's line of Model Master Metalizer Lacquers is recommended for use. They are available in a variety of shades and can be arranged in an order from the lightest to the darkest shades (click here to see my chart). Start by painting the model overall in Non-buffing Aluminum. This provides a good base for the application of subsequent shading. Next, proceed with the shading. Note - choose the shading color by the degree of shading that you want. This does not have to correspond to the type of material used on the airplane. A panel shaded in Steel or Stainless Steel does not mean that that panel is made of that material. It is just that the panel appears darker than the base aluminum.
During the actual painting of the various shaded panels, it is recommended that they be painted one panel at a time. Scotch Brand 2070 Safe-Release Masking Tape is recommended. This tape will adhere to the model without danger of lifting the base coat or subsequent shading coats. The downside is that the tape may lift so all edges should be pressed down just before spraying. The Model Master paint is used out of the bottle in the airbrush and any excess can be poured back into the bottle. Protect the remainder of the model from overspray and give the panel or the panel edge a light coat of the shade color. Business cards can be used as a masking medium in many cases.
Alternate paints can be used, particularly for the base coat on the model. SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum can be used or even some home brew formulas. The key thing is to have available a number of slightly different shades to use for the different panels. Future floor wax can be used over the initial background coat for added shine and protection and also can be used over the finished model for protection and decal adhesion. Finally, the main key to a good finish is a well-finished model. Make sure that seams are smooth and even polished and the model is very clean before applying the base coat.
CEW 6/6/00
